I Climbed Mount Kilimanjaro: One Step at a Time
Mount Kilimanjaro. Just the name alone carries weight. For years, it was a dream I tucked away in the back of my mind—something for the “fit” people, the elite adventurers. But life has a funny way of leading you down paths you never thought you’d take. And this year, I found myself standing at the base of Africa’s tallest mountain—nervous, humbled, and ready.
Let me tell you right now: I’m not your typical mountain climber. I’m a big guy, a Black man raised in Southeast D.C., someone who didn’t grow up around hiking boots and trekking poles. I’ve dealt with my share of health issues, and I’ve come a long way since I started walking and hiking for my well-being. But Kilimanjaro was next level—both physically and mentally.
The Route We Took — Lemosho Route (8 Days)
We climbed via the Lemosho Route, a scenic and challenging 8-day trek that allowed for proper acclimatization and unforgettable views. Every day pushed me in new ways. Every camp felt like a new version of myself was being born.
Day 1: Londorossi Gate to Mti Mkubwa (Big Tree Camp)
🗻 Elevation: 7,742 ft → 9,498 ft (2,360 m → 2,895 m)
The rainforest welcomed us with thick air and vibrant life. It was beautiful, but even this first day tested my stamina.
Day 2: Mti Mkubwa to Shira 1 Camp
🗻 Elevation: 9,498 ft → 11,500 ft (2,895 m → 3,505 m)
We were still in the rainforest, but I knew this would be our last day in it. After lunch we had to climb a portion of the trail called Elephant’s Back—and it lives up to the name. The mountain range truly looks like an elephant’s back. We hiked over the elephant’s head, and even across the tusk at one point. 🐘🏔️
I kept glancing up, hoping the clouds would break so I could catch my first real glimpse of Kilimanjaro. We were getting closer.
Finally there she was in sight.
Day 3: Shira 1 to Shira 2 Camp
🗻 Elevation: 11,500 ft → 12,628 ft (3,505 m → 3,850 m)
This was a shorter day across the vast, open expanse of the Shira Plateau. With the forest now behind us, we were surrounded by alpine desert, rocky trails, and endless sky. Every few steps, I stopped just to take in how far we’d come—and how much higher we still had to go.
Our guide Simon took us to visit the Shira Caves, a haunting and powerful place. He shared that before tents were provided for the porters, many of them used to sleep inside those caves. It was cold, dark, and exposed—and sometimes, they’d have to chase off animals just to be able to stay there for the night. Hearing that changed how I saw every porter on that mountain. Their strength, their endurance, and their history on this mountain runs deep.
It was a peaceful day on the trail, intentionally light on distance and gain. We all knew Day 4 would be a serious climb, both in altitude and effort. This was our chance to rest, hydrate, and prepare ourselves—mind and body—for the long push to Lava Tower.
Day 4: Shira 2 to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower
🗻 Elevation: 12,628 ft → 15,190 ft → 12,795 ft (3,850 m → 4,630 m → 3,900 m)
This was our acclimatization day, and it was no joke. We climbed high to Lava Tower—an intimidating volcanic rock formation sitting over 15,000 feet above sea level. I took it slow, focused on my breath, and surprisingly… I felt fine.
We had lunch at Lava Tower, rested, and then descended down to Barranco Camp to sleep low and allow our bodies to adjust. “Climb high, sleep low”—it’s one of the main rules of Kilimanjaro, and this day was a textbook example.
Day 5: Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp
🗻 Elevation: 12,795 ft → 13,106 ft (3,900 m → 3,995 m)
We climbed the Barranco Wall—a nearly vertical-looking rock face that I feared and respected. But foot by foot, I made it to the top, stronger than I ever thought I was. It turned out to be one of the most fun parts of the whole trip.
The rest of the day was filled with short climbs and descents before finally reaching Karanga Camp for the night.
Day 6: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp
🗻 Elevation: 13,106 ft → 15,331 ft (3,995 m → 4,673 m)
Day 6: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp
🗻 Elevation: 13,106 ft → 15,331 ft (3,995 m → 4,673 m)
Today was all about getting into position for the summit push. We left Karanga Camp knowing we had one major task ahead: get to Barafu, our base camp, and prepare our minds and bodies for the long night ahead.
But that climb? Brutal.
It was a relentless, straight-up ascent, almost like climbing a giant stone staircase carved by nature herself. No switchbacks. No flat spots. Just up, up, up. Each step demanded focus, breath, and strength. This section pushed many of us to our limits—not because of how long it was, but because of how steep and exposed it felt. You’re already tired from the previous days, and the altitude is starting to really settle in.
We arrived at Barafu Camp around 1:00 PM. The air was thin, the wind sharp, and the ground rocky and sloped. It felt like we were camped on the edge of the world. Once we checked in, we had a hot meal and then began final preparations: laying out summit gear, double-checking layers, refilling water, and packing snacks.
Then we were told to rest. Not sleep—just rest.
Because at 10:15 PM, we would be awakened for the biggest test of them all: the final climb to the roof of Africa.
Day 7: Summit Night to Stella Point — and the Climb Back Down
🗻 Elevation: 15,331 ft → 18,885 ft (4,673 m → 5,756 m), then back down to 10,065 ft (3,068 m)
Route: Barafu → Stella Point → Barafu → Mweka Camp
I didn’t fall asleep until around 9:00 PM
At 10:15 PM, we were awakened for summit night. I barely ate. I was anxious, exhausted, and running on fumes.
By 11:00 PM, with headlamps on and layers pulled tight, we stepped out into the pitch-black cold. What I saw ahead was unforgettable: a glowing ribbon of lights climbing into the night sky. Headlamps from other climbers shimmered above us, like a trail of stars wrapped around the mountain.
The cold was intense. My fingers went numb, even through gloves. The trail felt endless, and the silence was only broken by our own labored breathing. Step by step—polepole —we kept moving. At times, I found myself dozing off on my trekking poles. I was just that tired.
Then the sky began to shift. The deep black gave way to dark blue, then warm orange.
Sunrise.
And just like that, we were surrounded by light. It was surreal. The golden morning sun painted the clouds below us like a sea of fire.
But even with that beauty, I was still struggling. My legs were heavy. That’s when one of our guides, Balthazar, handed me a sip of Coca-Cola and a piece of ginger root his father grows.
That ginger woke me up. It cut through the fatigue—it brought me back. I could feel the energy return, just enough to keep me going.
And then—finally—I saw it:
Stella Point.
I walked up, reached out, and touched the sign… just to make sure it was real.
And I broke down. I cried. Hard.
Because this—this—was my summit.
I didn’t make it to Uhuru Peak. But I gave everything I had to get to Stella.
And I’m proud of that.
I will be back!!
But Kilimanjaro wasn’t done with us yet.
After a short rest and a few photos at Stella Point, we began the steep, relentless descent back to Barafu Camp. The scree made every step feel like sliding on gravel. It was dusty, hot, and punishing. My knees and legs took a beating.
We made it back to Barafu around 2:00 PM. We had a quick lunch, tried to rest, and repacked our gear.
By 4:30 PM, we hit the trail again—this time headed downhill toward Mweka Camp, back below the alpine zone.
Another five grueling hours.
We reached Mweka Camp at 9:30 PM.
I had been hiking for over 22 hours across one of the most physically demanding landscapes I’ve ever experienced.
My body was absolutely done.
But my spirit?
Full. Whole. Alive.
I had climbed Kilimanjaro.
Day 8: Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate
🗻 Elevation: 10,065 ft → 5,380 ft (3,068 m → 1,640 m)
Our final descent took us back through the forest, the very environment we started in. Birds chirped. Trees closed in around the trail. And just like that—I was back at the gate.
But I wasn’t the same man who started this journey.
What the Mountain Taught Me
This climb wasn’t just about reaching a point on a map. It was about reclaiming my power. I didn’t grow up seeing people like me on summits. But I stood on one. I did this as a plus-sized Black man, as a survivor, as a dreamer.
And I didn’t do it alone. My deepest thanks to Sophia, our phenomenal lead from Soraka Tours, and the team that kept us moving with strength and care: Simon, Manasi, Frederick, Baltazar, Mohammed, and my porter Ramadhani, who supported me in every way possible.
To anyone reading this wondering if they could do something like this: you absolutely can.
You don’t need to be the fittest. You don’t need to be the fastest. You just need to start. One step. One breath. One belief at a time.
Kilimanjaro changed my life. Not because I made it to Uhuru, but because I made it to my summit—Stella Point. And from where I stood, that was everything.
Follow more of my journey on
https://linktr.ee/hikingwiththebear
Instagram @hikingwiththebear
YouTube @HikingWithTheBear
and let’s keep showing the world what strength looks like in all its forms.
